We awoke to the freshest air imaginable. Air quality rating was 1. One! Canada wildfire smoke got blown far south of Gangler’s North Seal River Lodge here in northern Manitoba overnight. Morning light crept through the windows of our cabin at 6 am and Granny and I were so excited to be flying to the tundra today we bounced from bed and sipped coffee on the dock and watched the sunrise. It’s a warm one for this far north. The temperature was already in the upper 50°s.
But the wind was cranking again. And wind postponed our flight yesterday. Unfortunately by the time the sun was fully up the wind was stronger than yesterday. Ken Gangler gave us the news at breakfast that we’d need to put off going north till tomorrow.
Ken has Granny and I scheduled for four days up north exploring Courage Lake and taking in the tundra. Following that we come back to the lodge for four days. Ken said we’ll just push the tundra trip back a day and today fish here. Perfect.
After breakfast Granny and I busted into our bags and I put together three 9-weights. Two with floating lines for northern pike and one with a fast sinking 350 gr Sonar Sinking line for lake trout. September is prime time to find lakers cruising the shallows. At 9 am we headed out with fishing guide Tyler.
If it wasn’t for islands and shorelines protected from the wind we wouldn’t have been able to fish at all. The wind was a steady gale. As we pulled out of the lodge bay with Tyler the whitecaps and waves weren’t terrible but as soon as we rounded the first island it was a white-knuckler. Waves and whitecaps were ocean caliber. Tyler quickly explained we had no choice but to fight through a mile of nightmarish waves but then assured us the ride would improve.
As the waves pounded us on our crossing we were hunched forward protecting ourselves from tremendous splashes over the gunnels. Though sunny, we had full raingear on which is mandatory for the icy douses of lake water. I fish and travel the world so much I can’t count the many miserable boat rides I’ve suffered through. Granny on the other hand – I felt bad for my lady and told her to hold on. The worst part of these is fearing a hard wave could jolt you a back jarring injury and ruin a trip. (Photos never show how bad boat rides really are).
I felt a few inches shorter from the pounding boat by the time we reached Tyler’s first pike location in a wind sheltered bay. I say sheltered – the bay was void of big waves but the wind was still ripping. But if you’re a decent caster with a 9-weight and the wind to your back, casting isn’t as bad as you might think. Granny can get it done!
The pike fishing at Gangler’s is so good its indescribable if you’ve not been. These toothy predators are virtually untouched and run much bigger on average than the ones in the lower 48 states. Granny knocked off several pike in the 24-28 inch range in her first half hour. They pull like crazy and after she tore it up awhile she had me take over.
We moved around with Tyler. 20-30 minutes at a spot then we’d tire it out and move to the next. Everywhere had numerous pike but it was hard to break 30”. We caught a couple 32’s like this one Granny’s holding here.
A couple of the 28” fish were kept. One of my favorite parts of a Gangler’s fishing day is lunch. That’s because it’s the famous shore lunch. Here your guide whacks a couple pike and you have them for lunch.
I know a lot of folks dislike the taste of freshwater fish. But fresh pike filleted and deep fried properly are delicious. If you read this blog you know Granny and I take a pike or walleye at home on occasion. We do a pretty good job making a feast. Today Tyler took a pike feast to a new level.
Tyler filleted two of our morning pike in minutes. A lot of folks hate dealing with the Y bones of pike. Tyler eliminated them quickly. Then instead of a fancy Panko mix, he dipped them in flour.
Before cooking the fish he cooked up potatoes with peppers, onions and mushrooms over a fire. Then he popped the top on a can of beans and cream corn and set them on the fire. We had sides. Lastly, he cooked up the fish and it was absolutely textbook.
The only thing missing was a nice cold beer to go with. But that was on me. I got asked as we left the lodge if we needed a couple beers. I don’t know what I was thinking. But in the end, fresh pike cooked on the bank of a lake, no matter what you have to drink, is to die for!
Granny caught so many pike by mid afternoon she was ready to save her shoulder. I think the big lunch slowed her down a little too. I on the other hand had been talking all day with Tyler and learned that his favorite fish are lake trout. That was it. When it was time for me to fish out the rest of the afternoon I had Tyler take me for lakers.
The problem however was the wind. The wind continued to howl and Tylers “trout holes” as he refers to them were tough to fish. Mainly because I needed to get my fly down about 25 feet and with the boat drifting fast in the wind, getting down was hard. Over the last couple hours I never landed a laker. Only some random deep dwelling pike.
It was a great first day and very fun to watch Granny enjoy her first premier fly fishing for pike experience. Though we didn’t land any donkeys, she caught more today than perhaps her total the last ten years.
We ended the fabulous day with some Gangler’s home cooking. Tonight was steak night. All I can say is that had we made it to Courage Lake in the tundra today we would have missed one heck of a meal and some tasty red wine. That being said, we can’t wait to get there tomorrow!
Sounds great. Good for you Granny. Looking forward to tomorrow’s blog!