I always sleep well camping in the boonies but some of my best sleeps come in the bush of Africa. For me it’s the sounds of the birds and animals and even the fact that many animals close by are extremely dangerous. That’s a weird thing to say for sure, but for me it’s comforting to be reminded these wild places still exist.
I’m camped on the banks of the Faro River on the edge of Faro National Park in Cameroon with Tourette Fishing and their guests and friends. It’s a spectacular site overlooking the wide sandy river bed. Over 250 species of birds and numerous animals call this place home. Last night we were serenaded by rumbling hippos and this morning as I sipped my coffee a pied kingfisher dove for his breakfast from the camp pool.
It’s the first day so everyone slept in and at 7:30 the guides, Stu and Greg, gave us orientation. I’ve fished in Africa many times. My trips to Tanzania, Lesotho, Sudan and Gabon were all through Tourette Fishing and over the years we’ve become good friends. Tourette specializes in the best and most remote fishing in Africa. The guides helped us set up gear and soon we were on our way.
This Cameroon trip is Tourette’s newest location and this is their first year guiding it. The words “exploratory trip” get tossed around a bit much for me. But for this place the words describe it dead on. This season consists of four weeks which started in February and end with our week. A total of only 16 anglers get to relish this season. What a privilege to be one of them. We loaded the back of the pickup and off we went for about a 40 minute drive.
I suspect looking at my blog pictures that fly fishing in Cameroon appears to be paradise. And for me it is. But there are punishing hardships that go with. First, you can’t imagine the heat no matter how well I describe it. The average temp here in March is 101°F. I promise you today was more. Keith’s watch registered 107°. As I crept up to the pools in order not to spook the fish, I burnt my palms on the rocks. Once settled I’d sit on a rock then burn my butt. Its intense and as an Idahoan, quite mind boggling!
And there are plenty of rocks. I imagined more of a jungle setting but this part of Cameroon is savannah. Every day will consist of demanding trekking over rugged terrain. An average day is at least a few miles of hiking. You can shorten distances but as with most rivers, covering water pays high dividends. I hung with Stu much of this morning and we covered several miles of scorching turf.
Our first session of fishing ran from about 11 AM till 3. As with most first sessions the numbers of fish caught were minimal because everyone’s getting their first feel. But there was one worth noting. Brian caught a Nile perch. This one’s a baby but he’s still the size of a nice smallmouth bass. Its also the targeted fish for the Tourette Cameroon operation so we’re on the boards.
I fumbled around like I often do first sessions. There’s nothing like exploring a new piece of water but its these times that often mean more experimenting than catching. Despite carrying my Winston 12-weight rigged for Nile perch and my 9 Air for tigerfish, I prospected with my 4-weight and a Red Winged Chernobyl Ant and a nymph dropper most of the time.
I caught some dash-tail barbs. I too caught a small perch. My most excitement however came when I hooked a big Niger barb on the nymph. Bad luck however, as the Cameroonian species of yellowfish screamed across the pool the Chernobyl followed, dragging through the water. It must have looked delicious because a 5lb perch slammed it going the opposite direction. Snap! Both flies gone. Both fish gone. A frustrating start but it’s only the start.
Around 4 PM is mincemeat sub sandwich time on the banks of the Faro River in Cameroon. It’s a late lunch but we don’t start fishing until 11 AM. There’s a reason. Nile perch feed best at night. So in order not to burn out before the prime fishing time occurs, we start late, eat lunch late then rest and fish late. We found some shade and kicked back – rehydrating and eating. Some of us napped while others told tales. We even took a refreshing swim.
During the evening session we don’t meander up the river banks fishing like during the day. Lions, leopards, savanna buffalo and more thrive here. Even more dangerous, the Faro River is full of unpredictable hippos and the West African crocodile. Tourette guides are well trained to maneuver safely around these animals. I understand the needed precautions from fishing near buffalo on the Yellowstone River or camping in grizzly bear country but the animals we deal with here are perhaps more serious!
By 6 PM Stu and Greg had everyone situated in a prime Nile perch pool. The rule of thumb is stay in one place and fish it thoroughly into the night. Nile perch can obtain sizes of well over 100lbs and a 12-weight is advised. I used my Sonar Big Water Taper sinking and a straight piece of 80lb fluorocarbon. Then as you would expect, we fish huge flies. These are deer hair specials designed to push water in the dark.
I loved my spot and fanned casts out in every direction over the course of four hours. There’s no moon at all our first few nights so we keep the headlamps handy and didn’t bounce around much. Its inky black dark and if you fall on the rocks – who knows. While we all casted relentlessly, it was Bill who hooked up and landed the only nice perch, a 77 cm 17lb fish at 8 PM.
photo by Tourette Fishing
When I say we all casted relentlessly I mean it. I know what these fish are like from my days in Egypt. They are spectacular fish and I’m ready for more. Bill hooked and lost another. I got a strike around 9 PM but couldn’t connect. Jako landed a small one around the same time as my strike. But that was it.
After all the travel over the last few days everyone was exhausted and at 9:45 PM we filed in the back of the pickup and returned to camp with tall beers. Then it was a late kob steaks dinner and bed.
Had a delay catching up with the blog (Was fishing a lot my self on hard water) but now I am savoring every post. Awesome blog Jeff! I look forward to the posts more than any periodical or book. One of my best nights of sleep in recent years was waking up covered in frost on the banks of the Snake River on a trip with you so definitely appreciate wilderness camping. However, I think I would be a little wary in Cameroon! You are a BEAST!